Ale Street News Online

In 1841 in Vienna, Austria, Anton Dreher established a new style of beer, the Vienna lager, by introducing a new, richly malted barley, kilned differently than all others before it, that imparted a glowing amber tinge to the beer and a subtly sweet texture to its flavor.

In 1995, in Downingtown, Pennsylvania, brewmasters Ron and Bill brewed their first HopDevil Ale, a spicy fusion rich in Vienna malts and fragrant American hops at Victory Brewing Co. The influence of European traditions contributed wonderfully to the inspired recipe that has won many fans and critical acclaim.

But would it play in the motherland?

On Sunday February 22, Victory co-founder and co-brewmaster Bill Covaleski was in Vienna, turning fresh Vienna malts from the local Stadlauer maltings and imported, whole flower American hops into HopDevil, at the request of the popular 1516 Brewing Co.

1516 founder Horst Asanger welcomed the cultural collaboration, "We just feel flattered and honored to have the pleasure to invite Bill. The end product is going to be 100% pure quality, with no competitor on the market." Confident that the menacingly delicious HopDevil will find a warm welcome among his patrons, Horst added, "We are in a very international part of the city and of the whole American beer-drinking community, I’m sure quite a few of them are just longing for an IPA with a decent amount of hops in it."

Initially the concept of Austrian beer authority and author, Conrad Seidl, the plan took form in September of 2003 as Seidl lead a group of 38 European brewery owners and managers on an inspirational tour of U.S. craft breweries. The group’s first stop being Victory. Many ideas and concepts were exchanged such that Seidl left assured of the success of a Victory brew in Vienna. His adventurous spirit for brewing is as well articulated as it is logical.

"As a beer writer I have learned that many breweries only brew two or three different brews. In Germany and Austria it would typically be a Helles, a Pils and a Hefeweizen. While these beers are usually good they are not very exciting. Knowledgeable beer drinkers want choice — and it is the small breweries and brewpubs that can offer choice by sharing the experience of brewing exciting beers across borders and across cultures. By introducing the ideas and concepts of the American craft beer industry to brewers who have to compete with the industrial brewers I hope to encourage some to be as different and excellent as their American colleagues."

Bill was ready for the brewing mission. "I look forward to touring the modern maltings of Stadlauer and seeking out the ruins of Dreher’s historically significant brewery. I am certain that the true flavors of Viennese beer culture will return with me and manifest themselves in a unique manner in our brewery as well," he said before departing.

I recall humming the "The Blue Danube" to myself as the sweet smells of a successful brew filled the cozy confines of the 1516 Brewing Co. back in February. Horst and I had just completed the first brew of HopDevil Ale outside of the U.S. and I quipped "the Danube will run green with American hops tonight" as we rinsed the brewhouse down.

But as the sights and sounds of HopDevil being created drove Horst and his customers to a fever pitch for a hoppy American ale, as evidenced in their consumption of 120 liters of HopDevil the night of its release on March 13, I had visions of a Viennese ghost that I had become preoccupied with.

I glimpsed this ghost in a cool half liter mug at the tiny Knudel & Strudel, a university neighborhood pub, there in Vienna. Firm, with a creamy malt character that lingered, this simple Vienna lager was a gift of enlightenment, offered to myself and writer Don Russell by our friend and guide, Conrad Seidl.

Brewmaster Andreas Urban conjured the vision for me again, there over a great lunch at his Schwechat Brewery. Shaking off the snow and the solemn mood of our walk through Vienna’s immense public cemetery, Andreas rejuvenated our souls with bright and spicy, yet deeply satisfying Schwechat Zwickl beer. Unfiltered, from a retro-look bottle, his creation is a modern take on the Vienna lager style that is thoroughly exciting.

With a glass freshly poured from our tank here at Victory Brewing Co., I can say that the spirit of Vienna lager is alive in America, if not close in our midst. Inspired by what was tasted in Vienna, we committed 711 gallons of our own Vienna lager to a fermenter here on March 31. It was released in early June. This style of beer is rare in Austria, and virtually non-existent here in the U.S.

Full of flavorful Vienna malts and fine, tangy Czech hops, it is both bright and brassy, and substantial and refined. As I sip it, I can sense how it was the perfect tonic for the rapidly evolving, newly-industrious Europe of the late 1800’s. Those times were stimulating with cultural change that demanded a certain solace in the traditions of familiarity as well.

Touring his Stadlauer Maltings of Vienna, Ingomar Aicholzer relayed to me this bygone era of his grand operation that once employed 1,700 workers, processing the finest malts from Moravia that flowed south to Vienna on recently built railways. I imagined mighty men, hand raking tons of germinating malts in steamy chambers, with mighty thirsts to satisfy.

Stadlauer, still Austria’s largest malt producer, now employs only 17 in their highly automated operation. Just like the spirits of those who built and glorified this once dominant beer style, much has been lost as beer brewing has modernized. We are proud to revive the past, and pay honor to those ghosts that should never be overlooked by time.