Ale Street News Online

ESB, which is an acronym for Extra Special Bitter, hasn’t become quite as well known as its 3-letter cousin IPA, but this style, first introduced by the Fuller’s brewery as a winter beer in 1971, has become the best known of the three styles of English Bitter. It has inspired many professional and amateur brewers to attempt to brew something akin to the original, often with great results.

ESB is the strongest of the three styles of English Bitter. Although the name bitter might lead you to think these are highly hopped beers, they are not, at least by modern standards. English-style bitter can be anywhere from golden to copper colored, and possess a distinctively English malt and hop character. Usually these beers are served on draft, or on cask, and have lighter carbonation than many other styles. As the strength of the style increases, often the color deepens slightly, the hops become more noticeable, and the body correspondingly becomes a bit fuller to balance. Often these beers are dry hopped, especially the cask versions.

Ordinary Bitter contains between 3 to 3.7% (which makes it a lot lighter than any commercial American Light Lager, and much more flavorful to boot). Special Bitter has 4.1 to 4.8%, and Extra Special Bitter has the most alcohol, with 4.8 to 5.8%. Fullers ESB is still the benchmark of the style. It has a deep copper color with a luscious toasted malt aroma. The crisp toasty maltiness is in the front of the flavor, and in the middle and finish is tempered by earthy, spicy English hops. These beers are very drinkable and satisfying, with great malt/hop balance.

Some other English examples are Young’s Special London Ale, Bateman’s XXXB, Bishop’s Finger, and Wells Bombardier. Domestic versions include Stoudts Scarlet Lady, Redhook ESB, Elysian The Wise, and Free State Big Sea ESB.

ESB is a fast and easy beer to brew and a perfect choice to serve to your friends and family. It is a supremely drinkable beer that everyone will love, from novices to full-fledged beer geeks. For the most authentic flavor, try to use English malts and hops. Floor malted Marris Otter pale malt is a great choice, but other English malts will also do. English crystal malt is a big part of the caramel toastiness these beers exhibit, and some breweries also add a bit of roasted barley or black or chocolate malts, not enough to really give any noticeable roasty flavor but to deepen the color and add malt complexity.

English hops such as East Kent Goldings, Fuggles, Target, and Challenger are all good hop choices. English ale yeast is also important for the most true to style flavor and attenuation. Wyeast 1968 London ESB, or White Labs WLP-002 English Ale, or WLP 006 Bedford Ale are all good choices.

ESB: all grain recipe

Ingredients:

9 lbs. English two row malt

.3 lb. English crystal malt

.10 lb black, chocolate or

roasted barley (optional)

7 AAU’s English hop pellets -

70 minutes

2 AAU’s English hop pellets -

25 minutes

.5 oz. English hop pellets -

0 minutes

English ale yeast slurry

Method:

Heat 14 quarts brewing water to 164°. Mash in crushed grain to reach 150°. Hold for 60 minutes. Stir in about 3 to 4 quarts boiling water to raise temp. to 168°. Recirculate gently until runoff appears clear, then sparge with 168° water to collect 6 gallons. Boil for 70 minutes, adding hops as indicated. Cool to 68° and pitch yeast starter. Aerate thoroughly. O.G. = 1.054.

ESB: extract recipe

Ingredients:

6.5 lbs dry English malt

extract

.3 lb. English crystal malt

.10 lb black, chocolate or

roasted barley (optional)

7 AAU’s English hop pellets -

70 minutes

2 AAU’s English hop pellets -

25 minutes

.5 oz. English hop pellets -

0 minutes

English ale yeast slurry

Method:

Heat 6 gallons of brewing water (use two pots if necessary). Steep the crushed grains in a grain bag. When the water reaches 160°, hold for 30 minutes and then remove the grain bag. Remove the pot from heat source and stir in malt extract into the brewing water until completely dissolved, then boil for 70 minutes, adding hops as indicated. Cool to 68° and pitch yeast starter. Aerate thoroughly. O.G. = 1054.

Paul Sullivan has won three Gold Medals in AHA National competitions. He is a professional musician and teacher living in New York City. His new CD "Lambic" is available from cdbaby.com or visit http://myspace.com/lambic